The Wenzel’s Big Adventure

The final leg of our Türkiye adventure took us to the Mediterranean Sea. We started in Antalya, traveled to Demre, and concluded our journey in Fethiye. The weather was hot, the water was crystal clear, and the coastal highway from Antalya to Fethiye provided a driving experience like no other.

The drive from Uçhisar to Antalya took six hours. Along the way, we were treated to breathtaking vistas and delicious fruit. As we traveled down Highway D687, south of Beyşehir, we noticed people selling strawberries and other fruits by the roadside. Anyone who has traveled in British Columbia during the summer knows that roadside fruit is the best, so we decided to stop and stock up. We bought 2 kilograms of strawberries from an elderly lady for just $8—a steal of a deal, especially since the berries were among the finest we’ve ever tasted. We thought the 2 kilograms would last us a few days, but they hardly made it through the drive. Unfortunately, this stretch of the Turkish highway was the only one with fruit vendors.

Approaching the coast, we noticed the temperature climbing. When we departed our hotel in Uçhisar, the car’s temperature gauge showed 23°C, but it soared to 44°C just past Antalya. Despite the heat, it felt manageable, and we thought it would be great to enjoy the warm weather with a hike among ancient ruins. After being in the air-conditioned car for most of the day, a couple of hours on foot wouldn’t be too taxing for us.

During our drive to the ruins, we noticed someone walking along the highway. With the intense heat, it didn’t seem safe for anyone to be out there, so we decided to stop and give her a ride. The woman, clearly soaked in sweat, was thrilled when we offered her a lift. She was also on her way to the ancient city of Aspendos and had been left stranded on the roadside by the bus from Antalya earlier that day. After walking for an hour or two and with little water remaining, she still had about 5-6 kilometres to travel.

We discovered that she was originally from Canada but had moved to South America, where she taught high school biology. She was an incredibly interesting person who shared captivating stories from her travels around the world. The twins adored her, especially because she shared snacks with them, and they even persuaded her to ride with us to Antalya after we toured the ruins. Our apartment and her hotel were both located in the Kaleiçi (old town) area of Antalya, so it worked out perfectly for her to catch a ride with us. 

The ancient ruins of Aspendos are quite remarkable. Records of the city date back to the 5th century BC, indicating that it was a significant trade hub. Situated on the Eurymedon River, it was the farthest point inland that ships could reach. While the site features remains of various structures, it is best known for the Roman Theatre of Aspendos. Constructed in 155 BC, the theatre boasts exceptional acoustics and continues to host the annual Aspendos Culture and Film Festival. Attendance records indicate that the theatre can accommodate over 20,000 people. 

My driving skills were put to the test in Antalya. Most of the places we visited in Türkiye had been small and spread out, while the old town of Antalya was the complete opposite. Almost every road is one-way (though not always marked as such), the streets are narrow, and in the area where our apartment was located, there was only one way in. Getting to our place proved to be a bit of a challenge, even with the help of Google. The tight streets and confusing traffic rules made navigating the city a unique experience. 

After dropping off our new friend, we tried to get to our apartment. We entered our address and then drove in circles, unsure how to reach our area. There was a gate on the road to our place with a sign indicating “Local Traffic Only,” so we assumed Google had made a mistake (it does happen). We drove past the street, intending to find another way in, but there wasn’t one. After making a loop, we returned to the gated street, got through, and thought it would be “clear sailing from here.” 

Immediately, we were confronted by a maze of narrow streets. The maze was so complicated that even our map apps got confused. First, we were directed down a street that became progressively narrower until we reached a point where our small cars folded in their mirrors and began scraping against the walls. Next, we ventured down a street that was about 100 yards long and had a pedestrian walkway at the end; the app indicated that our place was at the end of that walkway. It was late, everyone was tired, and we weren’t sure what to do. As we began backing out, a guy approached the car, asking if we were lost. Jimju had been watching us drive around aimlessly and knew we needed help. After a brief discussion, he informed us that he was the building’s manager, that he’d been waiting for us, and that we could park our vehicle right out front, but it would be best to back in. Elated that we’d found our spot, we manoeuvred out and started backing in, only to be stopped by a couple of other guys who’d been watching us. They informed us that we couldn’t back in and park in front of their building. Confused, we pulled back out and then drove in. Jimju came back out and asked why we hadn’t backed in (like he had told us to). After listening to what we mentioned the others said, he shook his head, told us he’d handle it, and once again instructed us to back in. As we pulled back, we could hear him letting them have it. 

Finally parked for the night, we unloaded the Clio and explored our new room. Our spot was a single-room apartment that hadn’t been updated since it was built in the 1960s. The curtains were bright pink, the bed sheets featured a leopard pattern with pink trim, the Lino floor was soft and uneven, and an archway connected one room to the next. It had two decks (only one was safe to be on) and a grapevine we enjoyed during our stay. Although the place was dated and needed some love, its location was fantastic (as long as you were walking). 

Driving and navigating Antalya the next day began just as it had ended the previous night. Leaving our apartment, I thought we’d take the same road we came in on. Our navigation apps suggested a different route, but I didn’t trust them. It was only a short distance back to the main road, and I believed this was our best option for getting out; I was wrong. As soon as I turned onto the street leading out of our place, I was met by a lady in a Mercedes. I stubbornly told Corey, “I’m not backing up; the lady in her fancy vehicle can.” After a few moments and a couple of hand gestures, I relented and backed up. The lady pulled up beside me, rolled down her window, and said, “You can’t go that way; it’s a one-way street.” No signs indicated this, and cars were parked haphazardly. I thanked her for the information, turned around, and followed her out of the area, thinking, “Driving in this place is going to be the death of me.” 

Our time in Antalya was brief, and the weather was hot. Exploring another city wasn’t high on our priority list, so we spent our few days on the beach and by the sea. We frolicked in the crystal clear waters of the Mediterranean Sea on our first day and appreciated the cleanliness of Konyaalti Beach. Not only did we enjoy the absence of garbage and refuse, but also the absence of sand. Konyaalti Beach is primarily composed of pebbles, which I thought was a dream. It was lovely not to have to clean sand from cracks, crevices, and clothes when it was time to leave. 

Continuing with our sea-themed adventures in Antalya, we spent our second day on a pirate ship. We didn’t take part in many organized tours during our trip, but we’re glad we did this one; it was a blast! It was budget-friendly (thanks to Corey’s super sleuthing) and included lunch, snorkelling, and a foam dance party, which was a highlight. The boat had a bar selling cocktails and beer, so we were set. Ultimately, the highlight was the foam party. Like most adults on the ship, the kids went wild, dancing and running through the foam. The level of participation during this mid-afternoon dance party was unreal. There was one larger Turkish fellow whose hips didn’t lie; he could dance. We had as much fun watching this guy as we did throughout the rest of the trip. It didn’t matter what the song was; he knew them all and could glide. 

After Antalya, we took the coastal highway to the small town of Demre. During the trip, we stopped at the ancient city of Olympus to explore more ruins and dip our toes in the sea. The remnants of this site are still being uncovered and weren’t as captivating as our earlier explorations of ruins. However, they were located right beside a beach, so after our visit, we cooled off in the sea. While the water here wasn’t as clear, it still provided a refreshing break from the heat. 

The town of Demre was quiet, featuring a beautiful beach and an incredible kids’ playground; it rivalled some of the setups we have in Canada. While in town, we divided our time between these two spots. It was in Demre that we decided to buy a watermelon. This may seem trivial, but the watermelon we got weighed as much as Hadley and cost us less than $5; it fed us for a few days. 

Our final stop in Turkey was the port city of Fethiye. Nestled between the mountains and the sea, this location is a hotspot for paragliders. On the day we spent at Ölüdeniz beach (just outside of town), we watched nearly 100 paragliders launch from the nearby mountain, soar through the air, and land on the sidewalk behind the beach. Most gliders returned to land without any issues, except for one individual. While bobbing in the sea, I witnessed one person’s experience go from good to bad in an instant. As they glided down in a figure-eight pattern, one wing of the parachute collapsed, sending the flyer into a tailspin toward the water. I would estimate they fell between 400 and 500 feet into the sea. Thankfully, a rescue boat also observed the situation unfold and was positioned to retrieve the person when they hit the water. 

The hotel we stayed at in Fethiye was right on the beach. It was a total dump, but it had a balcony facing west, offering us a beautiful sunset view, which we enjoyed with terrible wine. Despite its beauty and wonder, the country doesn’t have very good wine. Or maybe it does, and we just never found the good stuff; we won’t know until we go back. 

The scariest day of our trip occurred while we were in Fethiye. We decided to visit a quiet beach south of town called Soguk Su Koyu. Shortly after arriving at the beach and enjoying our sandwiches, I heard a distinct popping noise coming from the parking area. Looking back at the parking lot, which was only a couple hundred yards away, I noticed people scuffling and a guy pulling a shotgun from his truck and firing off three or four rounds into the sky. Corey and I immediately grabbed the kids and ran in the opposite direction of the shooter. We found an old camper further down the beach and hid behind it with another family. I watched from behind the trailer to see if the shooter or anyone from the parking area was coming our way, and thankfully, no one ever did.  

After 5 to 10 minutes, some people returned to their beach day as if nothing had ever happened, while others slipped back to their vehicles and left the beach. The crowd in the parking lot dispersed and vanished. Once we felt safe, we gathered the kids and our belongings and got the heck out of there; the family we were hiding with also departed. Later, at the hotel, we searched online and asked our front desk clerk but never discovered what had occurred. Needless to say, we were eager to move on from Fethiye.